Sierra de los Filabres · Gérgal
Hiking in the Sierra de los Filabres
One of the least-walked mountain ranges in Andalusia: summits above 2,000 metres, historic droving trails, and whole weeks without meeting a soul.
The Filabres have never been fashionable, and you can tell on the trails: no queues, no overflowing car parks. What you get instead are dry riverbeds, high-altitude pine plantations, abandoned farmsteads and a silence that catches you off guard the first time.
Three routes to start with
La Merendera → Calar Alto summit
~7 km one waygentle climbeasy-moderate
The most approachable way to bag a summit in this sierra. You start from the La Merendera recreation area, beside the mountain road and already at around 1,800 metres, and climb to the 2,168-metre summit of Calar Alto on a gradient that stays kind the whole way up.
At the top, the observatory domes — the largest observatory in continental Europe. In winter there can be snow: this is one of the few walks in Almería where you'll actually tread on it.
The Cañada Real towards Aulago
from Gérgalsouth facemoderate
The old Cañada Real drovers' road leaves straight from Gérgal and climbs the south face of the sierra towards the hamlet of Aulago. It's a historic livestock route, with the arid landscape of the sun-baked slopes, scattered farmhouses and constant views over the valley.
Of the walks close to the village, this is the one with the most character: you're walking where people have always walked.
Las Menas, the old mining village
the far side of the sierradrive + walkeasy
Cross the sierra on the mountain road — the same one that passes Calar Alto — and you reach Las Menas de Serón, a former iron-mining settlement surrounded by pine forest, with its historic buildings and a recreation area. The trails that start there wander through the old mine workings.
The drive itself, along the crest of the range, is one of the loveliest in the province.
Get your GPS tracks from Wikiloc.
Waymarking in the Filabres is patchy. Before you set off, download the route's track on Wikiloc — search for "Gérgal" or "Calar Alto"; local walkers have uploaded dozens — and carry it on your phone with the map saved offline, because mobile signal drops out in the sierra.
When to come walking
- Autumn and spring are the good seasons: mild temperatures and clean light.
- In winter the high ground can hold snow and ice. Bring proper mountain kit.
- In summer, first thing only. There's no shade on the south-facing slopes, and by midday the heat is serious. Head out at dawn, be back in the shade of the terrace... or save the late afternoon for a run up to Calar Alto — it cools right down up there.
Local advice
- Carry more water than you think you need. There are hardly any reliable springs along the way.
- Patchy signal: tell someone your route and carry the map downloaded.
- The sun is deceptive even in winter: hat and sun cream, always.
- Ask in the village about the state of the paths after heavy rain: the dry riverbeds do change.
- Coming with your dog? We've put together a guide to visiting with your dog. Our houses welcome them.
The perfect day out
A walk in the morning, an unhurried lunch, a siesta on the terrace and — if the sky plays along — an evening of stargazing at Calar Alto. There aren't many places where you can reach a summit and watch the stars from it on the same day.
Your base camp in the sierra
La Casilla and La Casa de la Abuela, in Gérgal. A terrace for the post-walk beers and a proper bed before the next early start.
Check availabilityDistances and climbs are approximate and come from public tracks uploaded by walkers. Paths change over time: check an up-to-date track before you set off and match the route to your own experience.